The Michelin-starred restaurant Atelier is one of the most famous in the city. Firstly, because it is located in the luxury hotel Bayerischer Hof, which has been welcoming high-ranking guests from all over the world for over 180 years. Secondly, because the Atelier was Munich's only three-star restaurant until the very end: Since gourmet chef Jan Hartwig left in the summer of 2021, Anton Gschwendtner has been in charge of the kitchen. And with his elegant dishes, he convinced Guide Michelin to award him two stars right away.

Hans Kebab: Germany's most expensive doner kebabs

Anton Gschwendtner suggests meeting at Hans Kebab at Schwabinger Tor (gate). Soon after it’s opening, it became known as “Germany's most expensive doner kebab place”. Because, in addition to classic doner kebabs with veal, they also offer a premium version for 35 euros with Japanese Wagyu Short Rib. So, I join a two-star chef from a five-star hotel for a premium doner kebab – and am initially a little surprised when Gschwendtner casually arrives by tram.

He explains that he does have a car, but always parks it outside the city so that he can comfortably take the subway to Marienplatz (main square) to work. The star chef doesn’t care about status symbols, accolades and showing off. He cooks at a high level, not to please anyone, but because he is his own biggest critic. He goes to the Schumann’s, because he likes it there, not because it is a hip hangout in Munich.

The person behind Hans Kebab is Munich restaurateur Cihan Anadologlu. Previously, among other things, he worked as head bartender at Schumann's Bar. So the path from Schumann's to the kebab shop is not as far as one might think.

And the same goes for Hans Kebab. Some people come here to share an Instagram photo that proves they ate a truffle doner kebab here. Gschwendtner comes here, because for him it’s simply one of the best doner kebab places in Munich: “They do a great job here and they just have a knack for it.” At Hans Kebab, great emphasis is placed on high-quality ingredients, and many things are homemade - like the garlic sauce made from black, fermented Spanish garlic. Gschwendtner orders the “kebab of the month“ with veal, barbecue sauce, cheddar and feta cheeses, caramelized onions and Silk Cut chillies.

The person behind Hans Kebab is Munich restaurateur Cihan Anadologlu. Previously, among other things, he worked as head bartender at Schumann's Bar. So the path from Schumann's to the kebab shop is not as far as one might think. And Anadologlu has even published a kebab cookbook with several recipes. Hans Kebab also caters for vegetarians: meatless kebabs with high-quality meat substitutes, veggie kebabs with courgette-feta patties, and falafel dumplings with hummus, tahini, and cherry tomatoes.

Atelier in Bayerischer Hof: dishes like works of art

The Atelier also offers a vegetarian menu – which is rather unusual in Michelin star restaurants. Here, meat and fish are not simply substituted: Anton Gschwendtner and his team create an entirely separate menu. Moreover, no tuna, foie gras or endangered species are processed in the Atelier. Otherwise, Gschwendtner enjoys free rein.

Gallery: Anton Gschwendtner

His sweetbreads with lentils, pickled celery and sherry sauce became a signature dish during the cold season. Gschwendtner usually gets his ideas while on the road: “I have a notebook with culinary sketches. In it I draw the dishes as I imagine them. On long car journeys, I always have my mobile phone at hand.” However, he explains, you shouldn't wait until you are seized by inspiration. Each dish has a basic structure and can be composed logically.

There is one phrase I will always remember from our meeting: “It's just cooking, it's something you can learn.“

“I can imagine the taste of a dish in advance.” Rather than boasting about it, however, he immediately adds: “That's not talent, it's just the experience of cooking every day.“ Gschwendtner is pragmatic. There is one phrase I will always remember from our meeting: “It's just cooking, it’s something you can learn.“ While other star chefs are often tempted to brag about their skills, Gschwendtner openly admits that his team is better at arranging the plates. Simply, because they do it more often than he does.

Gschwendtner's elegant cuisine has both Japanese and French influences. So, he sometimes serves dashi butter, then again beurre blanc. For him, a dish is only perfect when there’s nothing that can be left out. And that is also reflected in the philosophy of the Atelier: There are only a few pictures on the walls, the furnishings are reduced to the essentials. The food should be in the foreground, the dishes are served like works of art.

Anton Gschwendtner: from country inn to royal court – the Königshof

Gschwendtner describes himself as a perfectionist, but also as very close to home and down-to-earth. Today, he lives near Freising, where his parents run a country inn. He and his two siblings are all trained chefs. After his first internship at the Königshof, he learned the ropes in a home-style restaurant – where duck, ox cheeks and mashed potatoes are on the daily menu.

In his free time, Gschwendtner does not travel to the kitchens of this world, but rides his bike, visits beer gardens or walks his dogs in his Ampertal home.

After that, he quickly moved to fine dining: Gschwendtner worked in various Michelin-starred restaurants in Germany and Switzerland, including nine years at the Atelier, before returning as head chef in 2021. The fact that he is a star chef, does not play a role in his everyday life, he says. You believe him right away.

In his free time, Gschwendtner does not travel to the kitchens of this world, but rides his bike, visits beer gardens or walks his dogs in his Ampertal home. “I've worked in Michelin-starred gastronomy all my life, so you're kind of stuck in that. But at some point, I might do something else, because I am getting too old.” What could this something else be, I ask curiously, and once again Gschwendtner surprises me. “Maybe one day I'll open a Späti late-night shop!“ he answers and laughs.

Text: Anja Schauberger; Photos: Frank Stolle